Samatva

Lake placid at Renukaji

Renukaji, Temples of Himachal …2.

Renukaji is one of the quietest lake fronts in India and on Christmas holiday in 2017, I could not spot more than a dozen overnighters. Strange, considering the reserve area is only three hours from Chandigarh.
Perhaps, because hotels are not allowed to set up shop, that makes the place less attractive, comfort wise. Hidden inside Sirmour district of Himachal, it remains aloof from the rest of the State in every aspect.

The birthplace of Parasurama, his mother is said to rise from the lake once a year, and a temple is dedicated to the same.

I reached Renukaji from Kalsi,a Buddhist edict and another interesting story, and travelled through roads that I would never be able to find again. I reached Renukaji only by evening. And while in the morning, the magical December mist had just begun to unfold, I had to leave.
Sometime again, Renukaji.

Land’s end at Bharmour

Chaurasi temple of Bharmour. Temples of Himachal ….9.

Bharmour is as far as you will go. It is surrounded by 16000 feet high mountains on three sides, the  hill equivalent of a peninsula. It is at the dead end of a sliver of a valley.  Squeezed between the Dauladhar range and the Pir Panjal range, you can enter the valley by road, but can’t exit anywhere further and have to retrace.

Bharmour contributes to the Ravi river, though it is not the source. Ravi is one of the most secretive rivers of India, hardly flowing through any large city before it snakes along and forms a length of the Indo-Pak border.

The Chaurasi temple at Bharmour is an experience. It is, as far as I can recollect, one of the largest temple complexes of Himachal. It is at a remarkable setting, overlooking hills on all sides. It is open and is not a walled temple and a collection of temples, 84, though many of them are tiny and share a common space.

The central temple is breathtaking. Alongside the temple stands a Deodhar tree, almost double its height. The most delightful part of the complex is the schools in the square. There are several and you can hear the sweet cacophony all around; and then suddenly it was lunch break. Kids poured out of the various schools, jumping into the temple. A cricket match, and a bunch of girls just giggling away. Far away from almost anywhere, there is unspoilt innocence.

Then the farm produce, the Bharmour Rajma, the walnuts, and chukh, the famous red chilly pickle.

Bharmour and the rest of the Chamba district will overawe you, totally bereft of the commercialisation you will see in Manali and Shimla. It is an effort to reach there, but next time you plan Amritsar, take the effort to go up to Chamba, and then Bharmour.

Land’s end. Chaurasi temple, Bharmour, deep inside Chamba district, deep inside Himachal Pradesh.

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki

Ki Monastery. Temples of Himchal …13.

Ki Monastery forms the grand trio of Spiti monasteries with Dhankar and Tabo. Ki is a 1000 year old. It appeared much larger than the other monasteries, in size as well as the number of monks. It looks like a building pinched out of worn out rock and mud face. White and dark brown stick out of the mountain face and it takes the form of the rock face and is constructed over several levels sliding down.

I kept going back to this place over two days for some reason or other. There was a Thai national negotiating a monastery stay (was allowed only three days), an Indian, killing time waiting for the single bus in the evening that would take her to the next destination,  monks chatting. Then a monk opened a special room for me whose significance I have forgotten. I gazed at the monastery from the north, from the south.  I went across the Spiti river to take a look at it from far. Heart’s content.

I watched several rounds of monk volleyball; a round of chanting; lunch serving. I was roaming around Spiti in a scooty which wasn’t a common thing then in Spiti. They borrowed it and went round and round a small square with absolute glee. I dont remember a single fact about the monastery, but each hour of idle at the monastery is kin of etched in mind.

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki Monastery